Deserted Trails, No Lines, and a Sky Big Enough for Everyone
Where the desert feels infinite and the crowds are nowhere to be found
I’ve spent enough time in national parks to know that sometimes, the hardest part of the experience isn’t the hike—it’s finding a parking spot.
It’s standing in a line at a shuttle stop, weaving through crowds at an overlook, or waiting for a moment of quiet that never quite comes. Don’t get me wrong, the parks are popular for a reason. But sometimes, I just want to stand in a place so vast and empty that it feels like I’m the only one who remembered it’s still there.
That’s why I keep going back to Capitol Reef National Park.
Nestled in the heart of Utah’s southern desert, Capitol Reef doesn’t clamor for attention like its famous neighbors. But that’s part of its charm. While Zion and Bryce Canyon are gridlocked with selfie sticks and shuttle buses, Capitol Reef saw 3.5 million fewer visitors last year. Let that sink in.
And yet, Capitol Reef is nearly double the size of every other Utah national park except Canyonlands. That means more space for you and fewer crowds to share it with. If you’re looking for a place where the trails, the views, and the moments of stillness are all yours—this is it.
And the best part? You don’t even have to go far to find solitude.
A mile from the visitor center, you can climb up to Hickman Bridge and have it mostly to yourself. Walk out onto the slickrock domes of Capitol Gorge, and there’s a good chance the only sound you’ll hear is the wind.
Start your adventure in Cathedral Valley, where monolithic giants like the Temple of the Sun and Temple of the Moon rise dramatically from the desert floor. The drive alone feels like stepping back in time—just make sure you’ve got a high-clearance vehicle (4WD is best). Out here, it’s easy to forget the world is moving at all.
Then make your way to Strike Valley Overlook, one of the park’s most spectacular hidden gems. From here, the entire Waterpocket Fold stretches out in front of you like a giant’s wrinkle in the earth’s crust. There’s no better place to catch a sunrise—and trust me, it’s worth the effort.
For hikers, the Hickman Bridge Trail offers a relatively short trek to a massive natural arch, while the Cassidy Arch Trail provides a rugged climb to an arch you can actually walk across. It’s the perfect mix of adventure and awe.
And don’t skip the quiet drives. The Notom Bullfrog Road takes you deep into the park’s remote corners, where the desert’s geology tells stories millions of years old and be sure to pause at the top of Slickrock Divide on the aptly named Scenic Drive for a memorable photo op. Or stroll through Grand Wash, where canyon walls tower so high above you, it feels like the sky is closing in.
When the day winds down, head to Sunset Point or Panorama Point for Capitol Reef’s evening show. Here, sunsets don’t just fade—they set the cliffs ablaze in shades of gold and red. And when the stars come out, you’ll see why this park is one of the best stargazing spots in the country.
Before you leave, stop by Shooke Coffee in Torrey, just outside the park. Their African beans make some of the best coffee I’ve ever had.
If you’re looking for more tips and suggestions about this place check out the full article I wrote on things to do in Capitol Reef here.
Until next time,
Will
P.S. A big congratulations and thank you to Daniel Winkler, our random survey winner, who has received a complimentary annual paid subscription!
This is our favorite Utah park!! We are fortunate to live close (northern part of the state) and get to visit most years.
Two tips:
1.) if you visit in the fall, enjoy the fruit from the u-pick orchards managed by the park service. Plus the colors this time of year are unreal - blue skies, red rock, yellow leaves…
2.) the historic Gifford house sells the most amazing pies - a very special camping breakfast.
Thanks, as always, for the great overview and article.
I went to Capital Reef in my late twenties. I did a day trip on my mountain bike out to Cathedral Valley. There was a lot of sand on the road which slowed down my progress but the epic view and natural beauty stayed with me for decades. Thanks I enjoyed the article